What To Do If Your Car Battery Is Dead

And now we will try to give some practical advice on how to start a car if the battery is dead , because you still have to go – at least to the store to buy a new one. But first, let’s look at the symptoms and causes of the problem.

The battery can reach this age when there are not many energy consumers in the car, when the battery is used with a standard load, when it is not driven over bumps and is looked after as specified in the car’s operating instructions .

But even the most durable battery eventually exhausts its resource, and every driver sooner or later faces the question of how to start a car if the battery is dead . Many factors lead to loss of functionality: sulfation of plates (formation of a solid insoluble sediment on them), boiling of electrolyte, shedding of lead plates and their subsequent short circuit in individual cells, natural discharge along the case… As a result, over time, the battery capacity drops catastrophically and its self-discharge increases. And at one point, the remaining charge is no longer enough to start a cold engine.

Even more often, the reason for a prematurely “empty” battery is a current leak in the on-board electrical system. A short circuit in the wiring due to a violation of the insulation or a rotten contact, or electronics that are not turned off while parked can quickly deprive the battery of charge.

To prevent this from happening, you need to carefully monitor the correct operation of all electrical devices and promptly go to the service center when, for example, the windshield wipers become too slow, or the headlights start to shine (brighter or, conversely, dimmer) or the turn signal relay clicks at an accelerated rate – after all, it is designed for a strictly defined electrical load. And the reason for the change in the rhythm of the turn signals may be not only a burnt-out bulb, but also an electrical leak. It is much easier to restore the battery without waiting for it to be completely discharged. After a deep discharge, this is almost impossible to do.

Sometimes the driver himself lets the battery run down completely. In modern cars, pressing the central locking button means turning off all electricity consumers. This is convenient. However, in older cars, such protection did not exist. Forgot to turn off the lights or the radio in the evening – get ready to charge the battery in the morning. A loosely closed car door with the alarm on can lead to a similar result.

A faulty alternator drains the battery even faster. A battery-shaped warning light on the dashboard means that the alternator is not charging enough or is completely empty. And when all the car’s consumers are powered by the battery instead of the alternator, the car is unlikely to travel more than 30-40 km before the battery is completely empty. A too weak alternator charge is also insidious: it may be enough to drive, but as soon as you turn off the engine, it will be impossible to revive the car again. Such a situation can be caused by a faulty charge regulator, a worn alternator belt, or its too weak tension. Therefore, even an occasionally blinking charge light (usually at idle speed) is a bad symptom that requires a visit to the service.

Finally, the classic reason for a dead battery is exposure to extreme negative temperatures. Every subsequent 10 degrees below zero at least halves the rate of chemical reactions in the battery, and its capacity is also lost. And if the 30-degree frost does not finish off the battery overnight, then the starter will do it when it tries to turn the crankshaft of the frozen engine. Especially if it is not quite in good working order and does not want to start right away.

A battery that is not completely discharged will most likely let you into the car – but after turning on the ignition, the whole tragedy of the situation will be illustrated by the barely lit dashboard lights. And the final point indicating a malfunction will be put by the starter.

As the battery loses charge and voltage, it will first slow down, switching from the traditional buzzing to a strained “cough”. Then it will be replaced by the crackle of the starter relay – the engine is no longer turning, so continuing to try to start it is pointless. And then, in response to turning the ignition key, there will be complete silence, accompanied only by the clicks of the relay.

That’s basically all the diagnostics that you have to do in the morning under your own windows, willy-nilly, usually when rushing to work. And if the battery is dead, the degree of the disaster, the level of upcoming costs – time and, possibly, money – will be higher, the more expensive and sophisticated the car is. As paradoxical as it may sound.

There are several ways to reanimate a car with a “dead” battery, they differ in the time and money spent. And also – the degree of risk.

This is probably the most reliable scenario if the car battery is dead , especially for modern cars with a bunch of complex electronics. The service center, preferably specializing in cars of the required brand, knows how to handle them and how not to harm the car in the process of returning it to service. However, this is also the most expensive option. You will have to call and pay for a tow truck or, in extreme cases, mobile technical support. A trip to the service, registration of repairs and other procedures will take a good half a day. And incidents with the battery usually happen on a work morning, when the driver is in a hurry.

An option for those who are used to solving problems independently and radically. Having photographed the old battery on your phone, so as not to mix up the orientation of the terminals in space in the store, you can go to the nearest “Auto Parts” and buy a new car battery.

This move may even be cheaper than a tow truck and service. But it makes sense if you are sure that the battery is completely dead and it is impossible to restore the battery . Let’s say one of the cells short-circuited, while the on-board electrics are probably in good working order, and the new battery is not in danger.

If the generator is faulty, a new battery will allow you to get to the service center and repair the failed unit. However, to begin with, it is still worth trying to charge the discharged battery: it could “sit down” naturally. This happens after a long period of inactivity, when the security system or other switched-on consumers use up all the energy supply. 

And on the way to the spare parts store (or before ordering on the website), it is worth rereading our article on how to choose a battery, so as not to make a mistake with the type, capacity, size and location of the terminals on the new battery.

The method popularly called “jump starting”. The most common, fairly simple and, perhaps, the fastest of all. Having special wires with spring clamps (“crocodiles”) on the ends, you can start the engine with the help of another donor car in just a few minutes.

However, it is also considered the most dangerous for the car. And not only for the one that needs help. First of all, because of strong current surges that can occur if the algorithm of actions is incorrect. And how to do everything correctly? We will tell you about this a little below.

In one form or another, such a unit acts as a substitute for a dead battery, connected in parallel to it. Starting a car with a discharged battery using this device is much safer than the usual “lighting”, since starting and charging devices have built-in protection systems. The disadvantage of this method is that powerful devices are not cheap, large in size and are rarely at hand when the battery is dead .

How to start a car with a dead battery without connections? If the engine is in good condition, but the battery is still not completely discharged , and it is enough to power the ignition and fuel pump, then the simplest option seems to be to accelerate the car – on a cable behind another car or simply with the help of several people – and then turn the engine by connecting it to the rotating wheels. A good engine will start literally after a few meters of travel, and the generator will then be able to begin charging the battery.

However, there are almost more contraindications to this method than possibilities. Firstly, such resuscitation is applicable only to cars with “mechanics”. Secondly, starting the engine without a starter, although possible, is harmful for modern engines with fuel injection systems – first of all, the exhaust gas neutralizer suffers. In addition, the timing drive experiences increased loads during the starting “jerk” – there were cases when the belt broke or the chain jumped over the teeth when starting from a tow.

This includes, for example, the “old-fashioned” method of replacing the donor and dead batteries directly with the engine running. It worked well on the Volga GAZ-21 or old Moskvichs – but for a more modern car, this will inevitably end with burnt-out control units and a generator regulator relay. Examples of another option can be found on YouTube – when there is a cable, but no car that could take it in tow. On the “dead” car, the drive wheel is lifted, a long rope is wound around it, and then pulled with force, forcing it to rotate and rotate the engine crankshaft. And finally, a “crooked starter”, that is, a crank handle, should not be discounted either – provided that your car has one in principle.

Of course, such exercises can only be done out of desperation. But let’s look at more common methods in more detail.

Here’s how to proceed when “jump starting” so that it is safe for both cars – the one that needs to be started and the one that is helping it.

Warning! Do not jump start a car with a 12-volt battery from a 24-volt truck battery.

• It is important to take the correct and serviceable wires – for such purposes, use powerful thick cables with tight clamps. It is good if the positive and negative wires are of different colors, which will reduce the likelihood of confusion.
  
• The cars are parked next to each other so that the wires reach the necessary terminals. The batteries of some models may be located in the trunk, but then under the hood, as a rule, there are still special technological contacts for such situations.
  
• The engine of a working car is turned off, turning off the ignition. The positive wire (usually red) is connected first. First to the corresponding terminal of the donor car, and then to the positive terminal of the discharged car battery.
  
• Then connect the negative wire (black). First one end to the negative terminal of the donor car, then the other to the “ground” of the car that needs to be started.
  
• The charge will start to flow from the full battery to the empty one. If it was just a little short of starting the engine, then after a few minutes you can disconnect the battery wires and try to start the engine.
  
• When the battery requires a more serious charge, you need to start the engine of the donor car without turning on the ignition of the faulty car and let it run for some time. At least 5-10 minutes. It is possible – at slightly increased speeds so that the generator produces a more powerful charge.
  
• The result check – starting the engine of a car with a dead battery – is carried out only after the working engine of a serviceable car is turned off. Otherwise, the so-called counter currents can “burn out” the engine control unit of any of them.
  
• When the engine starts, the procedure is considered almost complete. All that remains is to carefully remove the wires in the reverse order, without touching their connectors to different parts of the car or to each other. The engine should be allowed to run for a few minutes at idle speed, but you can ” revive ” the battery faster while already on the move, since the current from the generator will be higher.
  

It is important to understand: the capacity of modern batteries is quite large, so it is impossible to restore batteries during a short trip. It is better to visit a service center after all emergency rescue operations or charge the dead battery yourself – using a charger (ZU) or a starting-charging device (PZU).

However, nobody has cancelled recharging car batteries as such – it is required after a long period of inactivity of the car or during short trips in winter, when the generator simply does not have time to replenish the charge spent by the starter and numerous heatings. For this, first of all, chargers (ZU) or starting-charging devices (PZU) are needed. Now on the market there are many different options for them.

Modern chargers come with manual control and automatic ones. In the former, you need to set and control the voltage, current and charging time yourself, while in the latter, the processor does it. They are more convenient for most users, since in order to set the charging parameters manually, you need to at least know these parameters. However, cheap “automatic” ones often lack control devices, and you can only monitor the charging process using a couple of LEDs. And what current and voltage is used for charging remains a mystery.

By design, all charging and starting-charging devices are divided into several types, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.

Such devices transform the energy of the 220 V network into a direct charging current with the required voltage. In essence, this is a combination of an adjustable transformer with a rectifier. They are massive, usually with manual control and therefore are considered obsolete.

These devices are noticeably lighter and more compact, as a rule, they are equipped with protection – both from incorrect connection and from battery overcharging, and they can even control the charging process. For example, when the battery is fully charged , the device automatically switches to the mode of maintaining the capacity with a minimum current.

However, there is no point in carrying such chargers in a car. Firstly, they need to be connected to a 220 V network. And secondly, they are not able to quickly charge the battery. Therefore, their area of ​​application is recharging batteries in a garage or at home.

The most versatile devices, which essentially combine a charger and a full-fledged lead-acid battery, playing the same role as the donor car battery when “lighting”. Such jump starters are great for maintaining voltage in the car’s electrical system, for example, when updating the software of electronic units. These jump starters are also capable of starting a car engine even with a completely discharged battery. Among the disadvantages are impressive dimensions and heavy weight, so they are usually used in dealerships and car repair shops. Prices for such devices are also high – they can cost 20,000 rubles.

These starting and charging devices are more mobile. They can accumulate energy in capacitors to release it when the engine starts. They can operate from a 220 V network, but their main advantage is the accumulator, which allows you to not depend on the presence of a socket nearby. An extremely compact device can either start the engine or recharge a slightly discharged car battery in the yard or in the parking lot in autonomous mode. They are often not cheap – up to 10,000 rubles, but their price depends on the power of the charger – you can also find cheaper analogs on sale (about 3,000 rubles), the charge of which is enough for two or three confident starts of the starter. Among the disadvantages: they are not suitable for a thorough and safe charge of a significantly discharged battery.

A device similar to that used for mobile gadgets, only larger in size and capacity and designed to work with 12-volt equipment. It is clear that Power Bank cannot compete with a heavy lead-acid car battery and will not bring a dead battery back to life. But it is quite enough to “revive” a dead battery and help it start the engine.

Nowadays, it is not difficult to find such a device on sale, immediately equipped with “crocodiles”, with a capacity of up to 20,000 mAh. Another advantage of Power Bank is its versatility. It can charge your laptop or smartphone with the same success. True, such an assistant costs as a full-fledged car battery – several thousand rubles. So, maybe it is easier to immediately buy a new battery for the car.

• First of all, you need a cable, long enough and strong enough. With its help, using removable technological loops or towing eyes, connect two cars together. In the operating instructions, you can read where to look for the removable loop itself and the socket for its attachment.
  
• The loop must be screwed in to the full length of the thread, until it stops. The unit is subject to serious stress, and a loop pulled out during towing promises much more expensive damage to the car than transporting it to a service center or buying a new battery.
  
• Turn on the hazard lights on both cars (if they work). In the towed car, you must turn on the ignition, otherwise there will be no result.
  
• The towing driver must tighten the rope gradually and move slowly. The speed may ultimately not exceed 15–20 km/h.
  
• The towed vehicle starts off in “neutral” gear. Be careful with the brakes – when the engine is off, they work without a booster, so the pedal will be very heavy.
  
• When the required speed is reached, you need to squeeze the clutch, engage second, or better yet, third gear, then smoothly release the clutch pedal, lightly press the gas pedal and get ready to brake. For engines with an injection system, which start better than carburetor ones, it is worth using higher gears – third or fourth.
  
• When the clutch is engaged, the crankshaft will start to rotate, and if all is well, the car should start after a small jerk and continue moving under its own power. The higher the gear, the less noticeable the jerk will be when starting, which means that there will be less load on both the transmission and the timing mechanism.
  
• After giving the tow driver a signal that everything is OK (by flashing the headlights or honking the horn), smoothly stop both cars to remove the cable. Do not turn off the engine for at least half an hour so that the battery can gain the charge necessary for a restart. If the battery is “dead” again, look for a faulty generator.
  

When the battery is dead and the engine is started by pushing, the cable is no longer needed, but the sequence of actions for the driver of a faulty car is the same: ignition, acceleration, engaging second gear, smoothly releasing the clutch pedal and “catching” the running engine with the gas. It is only important that those pushing are careful.

The car must be accelerated either on a level road or downhill, leaning exclusively on its metal body parts – the trunk lid or rear pillars. Pushing, leaning against the glass or lights is dangerous.

In addition, we do not recommend pushing the car from the side, leaning on the middle or front pillars. And especially when the car’s doors are open. When the engine starts, there is a noticeable jolt, which can easily cause you to lose your balance and fall.